by TATYZ on October 17th, 2018

   Moccasins is one of the oldest type of footwear  as well as sandals known to humans.  In the early age it was made of 1 piece of leather pulled tightly with a  string around  the foot. Since then the construction and design of moccasins have change a lot and nowadays  a moccasin is a shoe, made  other soft leather, consisting of a sole and sides made of one piece of leather, stitched together at the top  with a vamp (additional panel of leather).  

    This type of footwear is light and comfortable as it doesn't have a midsole and toe stiffener, sometimes it doesn't have full lining. The sole is soft and flexible made of moulded material ( rubber, PU, etc) or leather with/ without welt and stacked leather heel.

   Moccasin upper consists of 2 main details: the body  which covers the sides and bottom of the foot and the upper vamp which covers top of the foot and ​hand-stitched to the body. The body detail can also have separate heel counter detail, the upper vamp can have additional tongue (if moccasin is laced) or decorative details ( strap with buckle).
  There are few examples of moccasin design on the photo below.
​There are many ways of  stitching the body details with the vamp. Here are few of them.

​To make moccasins you need a pair of rounded toe low-heel shoe lasts.

Here is step-by-step guide how to design basic moccasins.

1.  Cover the surface of shoe last with masking tape and mark  technical lines and points as on the photo. Draw lines of the upper vamp and other decorative details
2. Prepare outer and inner side to be flattened by marking the parallels.
2.  ​Then remove each side to be flattened. Make some slots in the outer side  (as shown)  in order to reduce stress given by the 2D flattening.
3. ​Make some slots in the inner side  (as shown) 
4. Flattening the outer and inner sides
5. Flat details 
6. Draw the  body detail using insole and outer/inner side details
7. Upper vamp with correction
8. Final pattern of the upper vamp with holes for hand stitching, heel counter and decorative strap
9. Final pattern of the body detail
10. Lining pattern

Posted in Shoe Design    Tagged with moccasin pattern, moccasins seam, mocassin stitching, moccasin deails, how to make moccasin pattern, moccasin design, moccasin drawing, italian method moccasins


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